Distance: 44.3 mi, Climbed: 3,579 ft
Completed: 1,320.7 mi, 67,766 ft
What a way to start the day—waking up in a state-park cabin overlooking the Ohio River. The sweeping view stretched for miles, and with clear skies and comfortable temperatures, it felt like ideal bicycling weather from the moment Rich and I stepped outside.
As we rode back toward the main road, we passed the ferry landing. I marveled at just how much weight the ferry could carry back and forth across the water. There is something about river ferries that still feels a little old-fashioned and fascinating at the same time.
The morning ride carried us through quiet farmland and small rural communities. In Elizabethtown, we saw farmers hard at work and tractors moving through fields.
At one point, we passed the Hardin County K-12 School. Having every grade from an entire county housed in one building made perfect sense given how rural this part of Illinois is.
Now being on the TransAmerica Bicycle Trail, Rich and I continue to appreciate how thoughtful and supportive people are toward bicycle travelers passing through their communities. We were happy to take a break at the Jenkins bicycle rest stop. A local family created a welcoming little oasis for riders with fresh water, a bike rack, and a shaded bench. So sweet!
Then came Eddyville Road.
I got there first and made a right turn. Unfortunately, the intersection was guarded by what felt like a pack of rabid canines. The moment I approached, six dogs came charging, barking aggressively. I hightailed it back toward Rich, but the lead dog would not stop chasing me for what felt like an eternity. Once it gave up its pursuit, Rich and I regrouped. We circled back and tried approaching the turn a second time, hoping the dogs had lost interest.
They had not. In fact, they seemed to be lying in wait.
I was genuinely scared.
After a quick discussion, Rich and I decided there was no point risking another encounter, so we rerouted and added a three-mile detour. Those dogs clearly had no intention of letting us pass peacefully.
Thankfully, once we were safely beyond Eddyville, we settled back into the ride. The terrain gradually became hillier as we entered the Little Ozarks region of southern Illinois. After the adrenaline of the dog encounter, it felt especially good to focus again on the scenery and the rhythm of riding.
Fortunately, our later animal encounters were much friendlier.
At one point, horses and a donkey were grazing beside the road, completely unfazed by us passing by.
Then, there was a snake stretched across the pavement. When I spotted it and turned back for another look, it quickly slithered off into the tall grass.
Though the day definitely had some intense moments for me, I’m grateful we were able to move past them and continue enjoying the beautiful ride. Days like this seem to capture bicycle touring perfectly: peaceful scenery, unexpected challenges, memorable encounters, and the satisfaction of simply continuing forward.
